Rivertree kitchen

What on earth did we do before Pinterest? Pinners have supplied solutions to household mini-disasters, inspiration for our kitchen and bath remodels, and most often, great recipe suggestions.

I found this ciabatta recipe from Traci Cooks in Austin and decided to give it a try. I am not by any means a bread maker, but her directions were very clear. My first loaf was just slightly overbaked but pretty darned fabulous: a crisp, chewy crust and moist, flavorful interior with an airy texture. I’ve made it several times since then, and it’s only  gotten better.

Then, lo and behold, the technical challenge on The Great British Baking Show (my current binge-watching obsession) was … ciabatta! The method they used was slightly different, but I still picked up some helpful tips. I still use Traci’s directions, but watch to make sure that the bread doesn’t overproof.

Ciabatta does require a few special tools. Because a cup of flour can vary by weight by several ounces depending on humidity and measuring techniques, weighing is the only way to go. You can get a reliable scale for not much cash; I’ve been using this beauty for a few years now. You also do need a stand mixer. Those are not cheap, but this dough is just too wet to knead by hand.

I switch out 50 to 75 grams of the bread flour for whole wheat, without compromising the texture. I also like the texture of the crust better if I skip the oil that Traci uses. The cornmeal adds crunch to the bottom crust and keeps the dough from sticking. The dough is so moist that the salt and sesame seeds stick just fine.

I’ve doubled the recipe to make two loaves so I could send one home with Luke. The bread is so moist and the crust is so firm that it lasts at least two days before you cut into it. Next I’ll try making rolls with the dough, and see how it freezes.

Sesame Seed Ciabatta
makes 1 loaf

250 grams bread flour
1tsp. salt
1 tsp. sugar
1 tsp. yeast
1 cup water
1 large pinch coarse salt
1 heaping tbs. sesame seeds

If it’s a chilly day, set your oven on the lowest temperature, then turn it off after a few minutes. You’re looking for the oven to be no more than 75 degrees. Combine all ingredients in a stand mixer on high, fitted with a paddle. (I keep my flour and yeast in the fridge, so I heat my water for 45 seconds in the microwave.) Mix until the dough climbs up the paddle; this will take about 2-4 minutes. Be patient; it really does completely leave the bowl and wrap itself around that paddle.

Wet your hands with water and slide the dough off the paddle. Insert the dough hook and mix on high for another 3-6 minutes until the dough mostly comes off the sides of the bowl and looks shiny. It will still be wet. Scrape into a large oiled bowl and set aside in your oven for 2-3 hours until TRIPLED in size. If it’s a hot day, this may happen faster.

Dampen your countertop lightly with water. Dampen your hands as well. Scrape the dough out onto the wet counter. Gently flatten a bit; fold into thirds like a letter. Repeat 3 times, rotating 90 degrees each time. Treat the dough gently. Place a very large bowl over the dough and let sit for 45 minutes right on the counter.

Flatten dough slightly and gently, fold in thirds  4 times once again, and let the dough sit for another 30 minutes, covered by the bowl.

Line a cookie sheet with parchment and sprinkle with cornmeal. Very gently form the dough into a long loaf. Gently move the dough to the parchment. The dough will be soft, sticky, shiny, and filled with large holes. Set the oven on 450 degrees F, letting the dough rest for 20 minutes while the oven heats.

Sprinkle the top of the dough with one large pinch of coarse salt and then the sesame seeds. Place the bread into the oven and immediately toss a handful of ice cubes into the bottom of the oven. Shut the door quickly to keep the steam in. Bake for 20 minutes. Rotate the pan 180 degrees and bake for 15 minutes longer. Insert an instant-read thermometer in the bottom of the bread; you’re looking for any temp. over 205 degrees, with a deep brown crust. Put the bread back in the oven if it’s not hot enough.

Cool the loaf on a rack for at least 45 minutes before cutting into it. Once cut, lay the loaf cut-side down on a clean kitchen towel and leave uncovered. This will delay the cut side from drying out, and leaving it unwrapped will keep the crust crisp.

8 oz. cream cheese (light, if you wish), softened
2 tbs. heavy cream (or half-and-half)
1/4 cup minced chives
1/4 cup grated parmesan
pinch of salt
18-20 won ton wrappers (or 4-5 egg roll wrappers, cut in quarters)
2 tbs. olive oil

Move a rack in your oven to the lowest setting. Heat the oven to 450 degrees F. Line a cookie sheet with parchment.

Beat cream cheese with cream to thin it. Beat in chives, then parmesan and salt.

Fill a small bowl with water. Lay out several won ton wrappers on a cutting board. Spread 1 rounded teaspoon filling in a stripe down the center, leaving 1/2 inch or so at each end. Dip your fingertip in the water and moisten all four edges of the wrappers. Fold the short ends of each wrapper over the filling, then the long sides, to make a rectangular package. Set each package aside as you finish it.

When they’re all prepared, use a pastry brush to brush each won ton on the sealed side  with oil. Place oiled side down on the prepared cookie sheet. Place on the bottom rack for 6-8 minutes, until well browned on the bottom. Brush the tops with more oil, flip them gently, and bake for another 5-6 minutes until puffed and browned. Let them cool for at least 10 minutes before serving.

Spring is actually here! I prefer to take the higher road here; we still have a few stubborn patches of snow in our yard. Around here, spring means asparagus. I know people who hunt for wild asparagus along country roads. I haven’t done that yet, but I’m tempted.

This dish is something I dreamed up while I was supposed to be meditating during an acupuncture treatment. It was well worth the possible loss of a few peaceful moments. It’s a combination of my asparagus, bacon, and ricotta tart and my latest post, white bean tortilla rolls.

They may look like the white bean rolls, but the flavor is something else again. It’s amazing how flaky the egg roll wrappers become when blasted in a hot oven. Combined with tender asparagus, salty prosciutto and herb-flecked ricotta, these rolls are a perfect package. We’ve had them twice (Tom’s requested them more often) for a light dinner, but they’d be a great appetizer too.

A few tips: it’s worth it to measure the asparagus spears so they’re all the same length. They’ll fit in the egg roll wrappers, and they’ll look pretty. Also, take the time to peel the spears. That skin can be tough, which will make the rolls harder to eat. Don’t worry about being neat when wrapping the spears in prosciutto; they’ll be hidden in the egg roll wrappers.

Asparagus-Prosciutto Rolls
makes 6 rolls

18 thick stalks asparagus (or about 30 very thin stalks)
1 1/2 cups ricotta (preferably homemade)
3-4 scallions, white and green parts, minced
1/4 cup minced parsley
3/4 cup grated parmesan
1/2 tsp. grated lemon zest (more if using store-bought ricotta)
salt and pepper
6 egg roll wrappers
6 slices prosciutto
1 tbs. oil

Heat the oven to 450 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with parchment.

Rinse the asparagus spears. Lay one alongside an egg roll wrapper; trim the end so that the asparagus is just slightly longer than the wrapper. Now trim all the asparagus to the same length. Peel the stalks from just below the tips to the ends. Steam the asparagus, or place them in a large skillet, cover with water, and boil just until crisp-tender, 5 minutes at most. Pull them out and place on a towel to dry.

In a small bowl, stir together the ricotta, scallions, parsley, parmesan, and lemon zest. Taste and season well with salt and pepper. Spread about 1/4 cup on each egg roll wrapper, covering top to bottom but leaving about 1/2 inch uncovered on left and right sides.

Lay 3 stalks (or 5 if using thin asparagus) side by side on a slice of prosciutto and wrap them to hold them together. Carefully lay the bundle on the center of a prepared wrapper, with the tips just over the top edge. Moisten the bare edges of the wrapper with water and fold over. Brush the top with a little oil and place, seam side down, on the baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining asparagus, prosciutto, and wrappers.

Brush the tops lightly with oil. Bake for 8-10 minutes, or until the tops are browned. Gently flip the rolls and bake for 6-8 minutes longer until well browned and crisp on both sides.

A cause for celebration: our small town has, for the first time, a winter farmers’ market. We can get lovely cold-storage vegetables, home-canned goods, breads, and locally raised meats. We’ve been thrilled to have access to beautiful organic chickens.

I’ve made a lot of soup with these beautiful birds. The stock from them is glorious: so rich it gels when chilled. While Luke was home from college over winter break, we went through batches of wild rice soup, classic chicken soup, and corn chowder.

I’d found a precious source for San Marzano tomatoes (a feat in central Wisconsin) and wanted to see what all the fuss was about. San Marzano canned tomatoes are supposed to be the very best, and indeed they were much closer to fresh summer tomatoes, with much more sweetness than most canned tomatoes have. Organic chickens have more flavor than mass-produced chickens do, so they can hold up to the tomatoes just fine.

The secret ingredient, though, is the parmesan rind. Save those hard end bits (I have them in a bag in the freezer) and toss one in your stockpot next time you’re making a hearty soup. The parmesan won’t completely dissolve, but it adds a rich depth of flavor, just as bones simmered in stock do.

The result is just what I was hoping for — healthy as all get-out, but hearty, rich, and satisfying.

Tomato-White Bean Soup with Chicken
makes about 4 servings

1 medium onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 tbs. olive oil
1 red bell pepper, chopped
1 fresno chile, minced, optional
1 tsp. dried basil (or 1 tbs. fresh*)
1 tsp. Aleppo pepper
salt and pepper
4 cups chicken stock (about)
2 cups tomatoes (I used whole San Marzano canned tomatoes)
1 small rind of Parmesan, 2-3 oz.
1 can white beans, rinsed and drained
2 cups chopped cooked chicken
1/4 cup chopped parsley
parmesan shavings, for serving

Sauté the onion and garlic in the oil in a stockpot over medium heat for about 5 minutes until the onion is tender. Add the bell pepper, chile (if using), dried basil, Aleppo, and a hefty pinch each of salt and pepper. Sauté for another 10 minutes or so, until the peppers are tender.

Add the stock. If you’re using whole tomatoes, squeeze them through your fingers over the pot to crush them, and stir in the tomato liquid. Drop in the parmesan rind. Give the soup a good stir and taste for seasoning; adjust as necessary, remembering that the parmesan will add some salt. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low, and simmer for about 20 minutes.

Stir in the beans and chicken. Simmer another 10 minutes to blend the flavors. Fish out and discard the parmesan rind before serving. Stir in the parsley and serve with shaved parmesan.